Grajales Expeditions – Pioneers on Aconcagua

In the 1970s, when “adventure” and “tourism” were considered opposite concepts and the idea of the Seven Summits didn’t even exist, a mountaineer from Mendoza decided to sell his farm to start a guiding company right beneath Mount Aconcagua. His name was Fernando Grajales, and it turned out to be a great idea. Over time, venturing into the mountains became more popular, and Aconcagua became a coveted challenge. And Fernando Grajales was there, blazing a trail—this time in business.

The small company he founded, Grajales Expeditions, made history by obtaining the first license ever granted to provide services on Aconcagua. Fernando was not one to rest on his laurels—he continued to lead the way in a growing and fiercely competitive industry. That commitment paid off. In 2024, our company, now larger but still united, turned 48 years old! I’m still holding the same mountaineering philosophy and the passion of the very first climb.

From a new route on Aconcagua to the Himalayas

Things didn’t happen by chance. When Fernando set foot on Aconcagua, he was one of the young promises of the local climbing scene. After a solo climb in 1952 via the normal route, he participated in opening a new technical route on the mountain. Alongside Dorly and Frederic Marmillod (experienced Swiss climbers) and Francisco Ibáñez, Grajales climbed Aconcagua’s southwest ridge in 1953.

That Andean endeavor was perfect preparation for the next challenge: an expedition to the unclimbed Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), one of the giants of the Himalayas. Grajales was a key member of this major expedition led by Francisco Ibáñez and supported by the Argentine government. They attempted the mountain via the Mayangdi Valley and the “Pear” route.

Two Argentinians and two Sherpas attempted the summit push, reaching an altitude of 8,000 m, but were forced to descend due to bad weather. However, the expedition was a major achievement at the time and gained international recognition. Unfortunately, Francisco Ibáñez died from frostbite during the return to Kathmandu. (More information about the expedition can be found on the Himalayan Club website)

Fernando Grajales handled most of the logistics for that trip. He worked methodically for a year before and a year after the Dhaulagiri expedition—first organizing, then settling debts and tying up loose ends.

The creation of the Aconcagua State Park

Twenty years later, Fernando Grajales applied the same methodical approach to his business at Aconcagua. Since 1976, when he pioneered the founding of Grajales Expeditions, he spent summers living in the mountains and winters in Mendoza for many years. At that time, only a handful of climbers would attempt the highest summit on the continent. But the numbers started to grow, and trekking to base camp became a more popular activity.

In 1983, the local government—together with mountaineering clubs and climbers, including Grajales—created the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The park protected the mountain and created an official registry for climbing and trekking permits. At the end of the first season, the Park had recorded 263 permits. Three summers later, the total was 639 permits.

In the 1990s, activity skyrocketed: in 1995/96, nearly three thousand climbers and hikers visited Aconcagua. A decade later, in 2005/2006, the Park hit its all-time high. A total of 7,290 permits were sold!

Grajales, in the right place at the right time

Fernando Grajales was the right person in the right place at the right time. A man of his word—with a special charisma—he and his company quickly became synonymous with Aconcagua. Don Fernando, with his calm and methodical ways, kept running the business until his untimely death in 2004.

His legacy lives on in the family company. We are proud to continue leading the path opened by Fernando, with his principles as our core values: integrity, innovation, social responsibility, and environmental awareness.

Our 45th anniversary, celebrated in 2021, brought a unique challenge: for the first time in history, Mount Aconcagua was closed to expeditions due to Covid-19 restrictions. This meant we couldn’t celebrate our anniversary in the field, alongside partner companies and our mountaineering friends. Moreover, we didn’t run any expeditions for an entire year.

But we faced this challenge in the spirit of Don Fernando! We gave the mountain a well-deserved rest and hosted a virtual celebration with our friends (and let the guides and mules spend Christmas and New Year’s with their families, for a change).

The mountain was still there the following year—and so were Grajales Expeditions!

[Text: Nicolás García / Photos: Pablo Betancourt and the Grajales Family archive]

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