Tour du Mont Blanc: a practical guide on how to plan for the TMB

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the most iconic long-distance trails in the world. It covers 164 km circling the Mont Blanc massif, passing through three countries (France, Italy and Switzerland) with over 10,000 meters of elevation gain. It is demanding, requires physical and logistical preparation, but it is the kind of adventure you never forget.

This guide brings together practical information on logistics, accommodation, food, when to go and what to expect from the trail. If you are planning to do the Tour du Mont Blanc, this post is a good starting point.

Viewpoint with views of Mont Blanc mountain

Overview map of the route taken from the Hike Planner tool.

What is the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The Tour du Mont Blanc, also known as the TMB, is a circular trail that circles the Mont Blanc massif, the highest mountain in the European Alps at 4,808 m, passing through France, Italy and Switzerland. The official route is approximately 160 km long, with a cumulative elevation gain of over 10,000 meters, both positive and negative. Most people complete the trail in 9 to 11 days, depending on pace and chosen variants.

It is not a technical trail — you do not need mountaineering equipment or climbing experience when undertaken within the typical season, between June and September. But it does require excellent physical fitness. The days are long, with several sections above 2,000 m.

What makes the TMB special is the experience of crossing three countries of alpine culture. On the French side, the views of the Mont Blanc massif are breathtaking and the terrain is more open. In Italy, the valleys are colorful and you pass by impressive glaciers. In Switzerland, the forests look like something out of a fairy tale, and the small towns have a charm typical of the Alps.

Views of Val Ferret, Italy

Accommodation: Refuges, Hotels and Camping

Finding accommodation along the TMB is one of the biggest planning challenges. There are three main options: mountain refuges, hotels in villages and camping.

Refuges (Refuges)

Refuges are the most popular and most immersive option. They are located high in the mountains, often in places with incredible views, and generally offer half board: dinner, overnight stay and breakfast included. It is the best way to truly experience the alpine atmosphere.

The problem is availability. In recent years, refuges have become increasingly difficult to book, especially for July and August. Bookings generally open shortly after the end of the season, around October, and in some cases sell out within the first few months.

Most refuges are part of a single booking system on the site montourdumontblanc.com. However, there are some that have their own booking systems, and also some that only accept reservations by phone or email. But if you find yourself in a situation where a crucial refuge for your itinerary is fully booked, there are other options not listed on the official booking site that can be a lifesaver.

Refuge du Col de Balme, Tour du Mont Blanc

Hotels in Villages

Chamonix, Les Houches, Courmayeur, Champex-Lac and La Fouly have more hotel and hostel options. Courmayeur tends to be a very common stop among hikers, as it is practically at the halfway point, and offers good accommodation and restaurant options. Some hikers even take a full rest day in the town, great for recharging and recovering for the final stages.

Courmayeur, Italian town in the Alps

Camping

Doing the TMB with a tent is entirely possible. There are several camping areas along the route, and it is possible to complete all stages sleeping at campsites. If you already have all the necessary equipment and are willing to carry it in your backpack, this is also the easiest option for completing the crossing, since refuges are very much in demand, while most campsites do not require advance reservations.

Wild camping is more restricted. On the French side, there are some areas where it is tolerated, and during peak season it is even regulated and prior authorization is required. On the Italian section, it is only permitted above 2,500 m, which in practice only happens right at the border with Switzerland. On the Swiss section, there are no permitted areas near the official route.

Bivouac area, Lac des Cheserys

How many days do you need to do the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The most common itinerary is 9 to 11 days, with daily stages of between 15 and 25 kilometers. It is also more common to do it in a counter-clockwise direction. The official starting point is Les Houches, a town neighboring Chamonix in France. Since it is a circular route, you can technically start at any point, but Les Houches has good infrastructure, with some more affordable accommodation options than Chamonix, and it is where the official Tour du Mont Blanc arch is located.

If you have fewer than 9 days, it is possible to do the TMB by combining longer stages or using buses and taxis to skip some sections, since along the trail you will always descend into valleys and pass through some small town. With 11 or more days, you can explore variants, take shorter days and make the most of the towns along the way.

What is the best time of year?

The official summer season runs from June to mid-September. Outside this period, trail conditions are not very reliable, with possible snow and ice on some passes, and most refuges will also be closed.

June is a more unstable month — if you are not prepared to cross sections with snow, it can be quite risky. Viability depends heavily on the season.

July and August are the busiest months. Refuges are full, prices rise and you will encounter many people on the trail. In early July there may still be snow on some passes, which can be an unpleasant surprise if you are not prepared.

September is an interesting month, as the crowds thin out considerably after August 15th. The weather is a little more unpredictable, with more chances of rain and shorter days, but it is definitely quieter and easier to find availability in accommodation.

Views of a glacier at Col Ferret

Some practical tips for the Tour du Mont Blanc

A few things I learned from doing the TMB twice that make a real difference day to day:

• Book refuges in advance. Especially in July and August. If you are going during peak season, you need to start planning well ahead of time.
• Prepare your legs for the descents. The climbs are tiring, but it is the long descents that destroy your knees. Trekking poles help a great deal.
• Do not underestimate the weight of your backpack. Every extra kilo you carry will make itself known by day five. The ups and downs of the Alps will take their toll.
• Bring layers. Even in July, the nights at high altitude are cold. It is very important to be well equipped with thermal clothing and rain gear.
• Bring cash. Most places already accept card, but it is always good to have some cash on hand, especially on the high mountain sections. Also remember that in Switzerland the currency is the Swiss franc, not the euro.

Where to start planning?

If you have made it this far and are excited about doing the Tour du Mont Blanc, the next step is to build your itinerary. The Hike Planner is the perfect tool for planning your adventure. What sets it apart is the mapping of all camping options, refuges and permitted bivouac areas, all in one place, with all contact details and links to make reservations. For refuges that have an online booking system, you can also view real-time availability directly on the map.

The TMB requires planning, but it does not have to be complicated. With the right information and the right resources, you arrive in Chamonix ready to start, and you will understand why this trail is considered one of the best in the world.

For those who want to get a feel for what it is like to do the Tour du Mont Blanc, here is a Silent Hiking style video with footage of the trail, refuges and camping:

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